Entropy is built from an epiphany with a wine, “I tried this un-sulphured wine from Bill Downie in a restaurant and pretty soon afterward I went out to see him”, explains winemaker-grapegrower Ryan Ponsford, “I asked if I could help with some stuff around the winery and vineyard, and pretty much never left”.
Ponsford’s vision was crystallised further by underlying similarities between concepts of terroir and the photography work that was his primary focus at the time, “the sommelier was talking about an expression of the Australian landscape through wine, which was to me similar to the wet plate photography that I was making in a portable tent in beach locations – temperature, humidity, salt in air, rain, human touch in fingers on the plates, which were all about environment and human intervention affecting my images, so that connection sent me off. Now we’ve bought land in the region and we’re planting a vineyard. The community and support are amazing in Gippsland, the generosity touched me, the connections, it was something that kept me there”.
This wine comes from Balnarring in Mornington Peninsula, a vineyard under the care of Barney Flanders from Cotier/Garagistes wines. Pressed off, hard bunged, left alone to the end of the year and then pretty much just bottled after that.
It’s a beautiful wine. Saline notes play with yeasty characters dance with citrus fruits and green apple. Saline to taste, nice crunch of salty acidity, faint nuttiness, cool and long in green apple fruit flavours and just the most all-round delicious feel. This has poise and tension. It’s fucking excellent. Wow. Words by Mike Benny
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